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Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France Paperback – May 3, 2010

by Michael Steinberger (Author)

3.9 74 ratings

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France is in a rut, and so is French cuisine. For the first time in the annals of modern cooking, the most influential chefs and the most talked-about restaurants in the world are not French. Large segments of the wine industry are in crisis, cherished artisanal cheeses are threatened with extinction, and bistros and brasseries are disappearing at an alarming rate.

How did this happen? Author Michael Steinberger investigates in this sharp and funny book, following the trail into the kitchens and vineyards of France, with detours into French politics, economics, and culture. The result is a striking portrait of a cuisine and country in transition.

Print length

256 pages
Language

English
Publisher

Bloomsbury USA
Publication date

May 3, 2010
Dimensions

6.39 x 0.71 x 8.3 inches
ISBN-10

1596915064
ISBN-13

978-1596915060
See all details

Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Michael Steinberger is Slate's longtime wine columnist and a contributing writer for the Financial Times. His work has also appeared in the New Yorker, the New York Times magazine, NYT Book Review, the Economist, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among many other publications. Previously, he worked as a foreign correspondent in Hong Kong, covering the city's transition to Chinese rule, and he has written extensively about economics, finance, culture, sports, and politics for a variety of leading international media. He is married with two children.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Bloomsbury USA; First Paperback Edition (May 3, 2010)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 256 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1596915064
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1596915060
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 8 ounces
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 6.39 x 0.71 x 8.3 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #4,123,958 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #1,702 in French Cooking, Food & Wine
- #4,308 in General France Travel Guides
- #8,116 in French History (Books)

Customer Reviews:
3.9 74 ratings

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3.9 out of 5

74 global ratings

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JanChris

Great Book for Francophile Foodies

Reviewed in the United States on December 23, 2010

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A friend lent me this book before I went to France last September. Now I find that I must own it. It is just beautifully and engagingly written. You will be enthralled from start to finish, especially if you are into French food, chefs, have familiarity with the Michelin star system and all that. Steinberger gets to the bottom of the changes in France, but I wouldn't say the "End of France" at all, after reading it and going there. French chefs who love the cuisine are adjusting and reinventing, still doing their thing, and doing it well, for the most part. In Paris, we went on the hunt to find some of Steinberger's favorite places and it was so much fun to approach Paris in this way. And we ate the praline deux mille feuille ("napoleon") of Pierre Herme on at the plaza in front of St. Sulpice, just like he does on the last 2 pages of the book. And just so you know, all 4 of Christian Constant's restaurants are in the same block of Rue St. Dominique, near the Tour Eiffel. Loved the book, highly recommend it.

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dissolvedgirl

Quite the reality check.

Reviewed in the United States on June 23, 2014

Verified Purchase

Very interesting account of the sad state of affairs of the. French Culinary Community. I admire French food, still do after reading this book but it has given me a more realistic perspective. A Michelin star or an AOC designation does not always signify quality. This book teaches us not to rely too much on "labels", to give the little restaurants and obscure wines a chance. Wonderful book.

Reviewed in the United States on November 2, 2010

Verified Purchase

this was an excellent book to read -e specially to anyone who has travelled or lived in france for the past few decades. it seems that the french are becoming more 'americanized' in terms of how they share meals, eat out and what they eat (more junk like us). while i believe that the bistrot and cafes are still the lifeblood of the french culture, the michelin star, 3 hour dinners are waning. a great book for any one who loves french culture

2 people found this helpful

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juliad

A taste of French Cuisine!

Reviewed in the United States on September 6, 2012

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Well written and very knowledgeable but after a few chapters I lost interest.I imagine it would be a great read for anyone passionate about French Cuisine and it's history.

Reviewed in the United States on September 22, 2012

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I was disppointed in this book. The preview was better than the book itself. In truth, it did not hold my interest and I did not finish it.

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curious cook

Iconiclastic look at the real state of French cuisine today

Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2013

Verified Purchase

No denying that French technique is still a solid base for building exciting new flavors and food trends. It's just that the real innovations aren't happening in France any more. This book is a clear-eyed look at what's really going on in the most exciting areas of foodie culture, and what has been going on in France for the past few decades.

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Anne Mills

Great Reading for Foodies and Francophiles

Reviewed in the United States on December 6, 2013

Verified Purchase

Very interesting discussion of the decline in the average quality of French food, and of the factors that explain it. I was saddened to read it. It confirmed my own experience, but I had hoped that my disappointments on my past few trips to France were just bad luck. No, but there is hope.

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kitinthehat

Must read for Francophiles

Reviewed in the United States on March 3, 2013

Verified Purchase

Interesting read about restaurant and food culture in France, consequences of the Michelin guide, Mcdonalds etc. Hopeit's translated into French.

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Hig

Excellent

Reviewed in France on September 9, 2010

Verified Purchase

Very good book with alot of interesting history about WHY & HOW. I recommend it highly.

recluse

アメリカ人による「フランス没落」本

Reviewed in Japan on September 15, 2010

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美食、グルメ、チーズそしてワインの国、フランスというイメージですが、そのフランスが直面している課題がそれぞれの領域ごとにルポされます。
中でも一番詳しく取り上げられるのが、レストラン業界です。ミシュランシステムの機能不全、三ツ星レストランという業態のeconomicsの崩壊、そしてchef（alain ducasse)たちのグローバルなビジネスマンへの変貌などが詳しく取り上げられます。
その背景にあるのは、高い消費税、細かい官僚的な規制、そして社会格差の増大によるアメリカ流ファーストフード（マック）の興隆です。若者たちはもはや美食への関心を失い、食事の違いということが味覚上わからなくなり、経済的な理由で、ファーストフードが第一の選択肢となり、その延長線上でフランス料理という文化の崩壊が示唆されます。ワインの業界も国内でも供給過剰と新興国からの競争により、一部のワイナリーを除くと、もはや壊滅的な状況にあるようです。
グルメの中心はもはやロンドン、NYや東京へ移動したことが最後に挙げられ、将来新しい中心が中国やアジアに生まれるかもしれないというわけです。最後は他民族の選手を入れて再生したサッカー版フランス代表のような創造的な「再生」が期待されているようです。しかし、日本も他人事じゃないね。

3 people found this helpful

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Dan-Ma

Over rated publication

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on January 3, 2020

Verified Purchase

Could not engage with the content. And I am/was a professional chef for 49 years.

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